Xian Great Mosque & Muslim Quarter
It’s no secret that Xi’an is the home to some of China’s most indelible history, from the Han Dynasty Mausoleum to the Tang Dynasty gardens; if it's Chinese history, Xi’an probably has it. Walk out your door turn either left or right and you are bound to bump into a thousand year old this or seven hundred year old that; it’s what makes Xi’an such an incredible place to be. But for now let’s move away from the traditional Chinese images and delve into an area of Xi’an that represents another aspect of China that usually only gets the briefest of glances.
The Muslim Quarter has its origins roughly from the year 742 when the Xian Great Mosque and its surrounding area first appeared in the imperial records. It developed via the Silk Road trade that would bring merchants from Persia, Afghanistan, and many other Middle Eastern kingdoms. It was because of this trade that many foreign envoys would come to Xi’an to set up shop. These “foreigners” in a strange land would congregate with those who shared their similar beliefs, and thus the Muslim Quarter was born.
Fast forward those initial “foreign” inhabitants through 1,200 years of cultural adaptation and local marriage and you will come face to face with the Chinese Muslim population that lives there today. They are a tight knit social group that is bound together with literally centuries of shared history and unique culture. In fact, when walking down the main street in the Muslim Quarter every shop keeper and most employees are Chinese Muslims.
For many of the people living in the quarter this has been the only home they know. They are born, grow-up, marry, and eventually pass away all in this small section of tree lined streets and twisting back alleys. This is more than just a section of a city, this is history, its family, it’s everything they know and love, all with-in walking distance.
The quarter itself is approximately 5 square Kilometers starting at the West gate and ending the Bell Tower it consists of two large East - West roads. From the West street (Xi Da Jie) to Lien Hu Lu it has two large North – South roads, with a multitude of small side streets and walking paths that could get even the most experienced orienteer confused. All in all the quarter is a place that begs to be explored and discovered, it is an area that can take some time to fully uncover, but once down it will not disappoint.
The easiest way to get into the quarter is to go through the archway of the Drum Tower, which is right in back of the McDonalds…(yes they truly are everywhere). Once you arrive, you will immediately see the change in not only dress, but food, language and smells. The fact that this area has been a home to Chinese Muslims for over one thousand years yet the dividing line between the two cultures is immediately apparent is something that most visitors unfortunately never notice or think about.
The largest difference for the larger Xi’an population is, of course, their religion which though following the tenants of Islam is also decidedly Chinese in nature. Even the Great Mosque, the central point of the Muslim quarter is of mixed Islamic and Chinese architecture, further exemplifying the intertwining of the two great beliefs and cultures. Even with the Chinese styled Islamic beliefs this difference of shared history and ideological backgrounds tends to create a margin between those living in the Muslim Quarter and those living outside.
Daily life in the Muslim Quarter today is similar to that of several hundred years ago; food is prepared, markets are cleaned, and old friends sit around a steaming pot of tea to gossip and reminisce. This has always been a close community filled with exotic shops and savory restaurants. The imperial records of the Tang Dynasty noted at least 5 outstanding restaurant owners and traders that had moved to Xi’an to establish their craft. Visiting the quarter, it is amazing to think that these cobbled streets, quaint restaurants and smiling faces are all direct line descendants of the original area established over 40 generations ago.
One of the main things that has been drawing people, both locals and foreign, to this area for generations, is the food, from the multitude of ka-bobs to the street snacks and desserts the selection is as unique as it is various. The ka-bobs offer everything from the traditional mutton and beef to spicy chicken wings and whole river fish. While the traditional Yang Rou Pau Mo (Crumbled unleavened bread soaked in Mutton stew) is always a great warm-er-upper on those cold winter days. The sweat rice cake desserts and candied dates are a great snack while exploring the dusty streets and quiet shops.
The best way to explore the area is to simply get lost it will happen anyway so it might just as well happen on your own terms). The quarter is peppered with no named streets and small back allies that lead to hidden court yards and ancient residences. While it is a close knit community, to wander into a private area will more often lead to a cup of tea and a smile than it will to being brusquely shooed away. The small sites and experiences that you will take away from this afternoon of being lost will more than make up for the odd glances and toothless smiles that come your way.
Founded by traders, shopping is as interwoven in the cultural tapestry as is the local cuisine. Looking past the “tourist market” antique furniture, silk, rugs, and wood carvings are just of the few shops that dot this area. Not much of the shopping actually is done on the main street of the quarter but instead on many of the side streets in stores that are not always plainly marked. It can be a challenge to find good deals but they are there and waiting to be found.
One of the best markets in the entire city, inside and outside of the Muslim Quarter, is the Bird and Flower Market, held every Wednesday and Sunday in the North West corner of the quarter, this market has everything a person could want, from common household wares and clothing, to birds and fish of all breeds and sizes. One of the most unique items offered is the chance to buy, bet, or simply watch cricket matches. Peer through the throngs of old men into the old earthen ware ring as two silver black crickets jab and hop their tiny hearts to victory. This is something that is uniquely Chinese and is an experience not to be missed.
When the exploring is done and the local food has been tasted, it’s time to set out on the trail of the many unique sites inside the quarter. The most important and probably most exciting is the Great Mosque, one of the oldest and best preserved mosques in existence in China. Taking up over twelve hundred square meters it is a large site consisting of four courtyards landscaped with gardens, niches, and paths that take you away from the busy streets of the outside and into the serene world of Chinese Islam.
Another area that should be explored is the main street, here markets and restaurants abound. And though they are visited in droves by tourists in the high season there can still be had an inexpensive, cultural, and rewarding experience all in one evening. Walking the main drag can take on an almost circus atmosphere, with venders yelling their wares, children playing, bicycles zooming around crowds, and musicians vying for a patron. It is easy to feel caught up in the excitement and forget to really look at the things happening in front of you.
Many shops located on the main street sell the traditional Chinese silk dress called Qipao; this slim lined dress with the three knot opening on the left shoulder is traditionally red and only worn for the most formal occasions. The Muslim Quarter is home to two of the top three dress makers in all of Xi’an and is frequented by far more locals than tourists. They offer many more items than just dresses, all tailor made and in a variety if materials from plain cotton to the finest silk that can be bought.
When the day is done and the sun is setting, grab a cool drink or a hot mug and watch the lights turn on one by one as the scene changes before your eyes. As the excitement of the day soaks in remember, their ancestors for more than 30 generations, and most likely for 30 more have been and will be playing their part and living their lives in an unchanging cycle that represents a microcosm of society as a whole. It’s more than just Ka-bobs and street entertainment, its families, relationships, and community. It is life in every stage, format, and situation, it is a glimpse into a culture that has withstood the test of time and refuses to be lost.
